Project: 1968
Ford Mustang
Status: In-Progress
Bodywork In-Progress
Trunk/Rear In-Progress
Hood In-Progress
Sand/Fill (Rinse + Repeat)
Doors
Paint & Body
with Jio
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Work some wizardry and get it ready to be painted
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Comments:
7/17
-install, remove, trim, repeat: the original headlight bucket a couple of times until I got it to fit
-trimmed the new headlight bucket to open up the hole, so the original bucket could fit the new bucket
-made a little spacer to set the height
-bonded the spacer to the headlight bucket
-set up and marked the location and rotation of the headlight bucket
-started shaping the opening of the headlight bucket so I could get the headlight in.
**This side is in a rougher shape than the right side from manufacturing. It is going to require a little more time than the left side to get everything together
7/16
-grabbed the original headlight bucket
-started trimming the original bucket to get it to fit onto the new bucket
7/2
-removed masking
-removed Clecos
-removed clamps
-cleaned up the clecos
-picked up all my tools and cleaned up around the vehicle
6/28 - 7/1
-removed some of the build-up from the glassing to get the panel to sit back flush to the fender
-installed left lower fender panel
-marked where the right lower fender needed to be trimmed by the pinch weld
-removed right lower fender panel
-trimmed the right lower fender panel at the marked line
-reinstalled the lower right fender panel
-installed and set up the right headlight bucket completely to figure out how I was going to do my clamp-ups for bonding
-scribed along the left and right rocker panels and lower fender panels
-removed the rocker panels and lower fender panels
-masked off along the scribed lines to protect the paint I didn’t want to remove
-ground down both rockers to bare metal along the scribed lines
-ground down the inside of the pinch weld to bare metal
-made standoffs to support the front on the lower fender panels
-cleaned off the metal in the fender near the headlight bucket
-cleaned up the headlight bucket where it meets the fender
-blew off and wiped down areas to be boned to remove dust
-wiped down with wax and grease remover
-masked for bonding
-bonded headlight bucket
-bonded left rocker panel & lower fender panel
-bonded right rocker panel & lower fender panel
6/26-6/27
-wire wheeled the rockers to clean up where some welding was done
-sanded the steel with 80 on the DA sander
-sanded the surrounding area with 180 on the DA
-blew off and wiped down the sanded areas
-masked off both rockers to epoxy prime the bare steel
-cleaned both rockers with wax and grease remover
-sprayed a few coats of epoxy primer on the bare steel
-bonded the lower parts of the panels on both quarter panels to make them a little more rigid
-finished the initial trim on the end cap
-installed and removed panel onto the vehicle a few times to get the right fitment
-cut up the fiberglass so I can glass the inside of the lower fender panel
-mixed up the resin
-glassed the inside of the lower fender panel let it kick, then glassed another layer
-shaped the front lower fender panel
6/25
-cut the bolt access hole out of the right lower fender molding
-marked the access hole for the alignment pin on the rocker panel
-cut the access hole out of the rocker molding
-installed the rocker panel
-measured and marked the location of the lower fender bolts
-removed the left lower fender panel
-cut access holes for the lower fender bolts so the fender can be removed
-installed the left lower fender panel
-the lower left fender panel stuck out 1 inch past the fender flare so I marked what needed to be trimmed
-trimmed the excess off the lower left fender panel
-started trimming the end to fit back on the panel to cap it off
6/24
-cut bolt access hole into the left lower fender panel
-installed right rocker panel
-marked the location of the pinch weld
-measured 1/4 inch back from the marks and ran a line
-trimmed the back of the panel near the exhaust
-put a radius on The corners
-trimmed the panel along the line
-marked the location of the alignment pin
-removed the rocker panel
-drilled the hole for the pin
-reinstalled the rocker panel
-installed the right lower fender panel
-installed temporary shims to set the correct location of the lower fender panel
-put a few alignment marks across the rocker and fender panel
-removed the rocker and fender panel
-set up on a flat surface and aligned the marks
-clamped panels together
-drilled the hole through the rocker into the fender panel
-marked the location for the bolt access hole on the fender panel
6/21
-marked and trimmed a couple more spots in the rocker panel
-installed the lower panel on to the fender to mark the location of the punch weld removed the lower
-measured back 1/4 form the mark, scribed and trimmed along the line
-marked the location for a “pin” on the rocker panel
-removed the rocker panel so I can drill the hole for the “pin”
-reinstalled the rocker panel so I can line up the hole into the fender lower panel
-marked the location of the hole in the lower fender panel
-removed the fender lower panel and rocker panel
-set up and lined up the two panel so I can drill through the fender panel and have the holes line up perfectly
-reinstalled the rocker molding
-reinstalled the lower fender panel
-installed the “pin” and everything lines up beautifully
6/20
-installed lower fender panel
-scribed the line to remove a strip down to bare metal, for proper adhesion to the fender
-removed the lower fender panel so I can take the area to bare metal
-installed and removed the rocker a few times to figure the exact location
-made a spacer to float the back end of the rocker panel
-installed the rocker with the spacer and washers to get the proper fitment
-once installed I marked and measured a 1/4 inch off the pinch weld
-removed the rocker and trimmed along the marked line
4/23-4/24
-measure and marked for trimming of the right headlight bucket
-trimmed back the inside of the head light bucket to get the head light to fit
-measured and marked for the trimming of the fog light hole on the right bucket
-started trimming the fog light hole
4/19 & 4/22
-bonded left headlight bucket to left fender
-ground the edge of the right fender down to bare steel and chamfered the edge
-chamfered the edge of the head light bucket and prepped for bonding
-started shaping the inside of the headlight buckets so the head lights fit better
-cut studs off both of the sail panel scoops
-started mocking up the locations of the scoops
4/17- 4/18
-drilled holes through the fist layer of the hood
-installed pins
-checked to make sure pins and holes line up
-placed Delrin washers over the holes to mark the shape of then opening
-opened up the holes on the bottom layer of the hood
-marked the location of the final hole on the underside of the hood
-drilled trough the top side of the hood
-checked to make sure pins and hole line up
-placed Delrin washers over the holes to mark the shape of then opening
-opened up the holes on the bottom top of the hood
-measured and marked out the placement of the scuff plates
-drilled pilot holes
-installed both scuff plates on the hood
-removed the left head light bucket
-sanded the fender and head light bucket for bonding
-masked fender and headlight bucket for bonding
-sanded reinforced filler on the left quarter panel extension with 40grit
-blocked the 40 grit with 80 grit
-marked and measured the center piece that connects the head light bucket, so I can drill for hardware
-drilled the hole in the head light bucket and center piece
-measured and scribed the front edge of the hood
-trimmed the front of the hood to be a consistent thickness
-shaped the sides of the hood so it can close better
-removed the hood stops
-opened up the hole for the hood pins
-marked the location to drill holes for the hood pins on the underside of the hood
-applied reinforced filler to the left rear flare and scoop to create a transition
-cut the reinforced filler with a cheese grater
-blocked the reinforced filler with 40 grit
-blocked the 40 grit with 80 grit
-removed the masking
-ran a carbide bit on the hard edges of the taillight pane
-spread a coat of reinforced filler over the left quarter and, tail light panel
4/11-4/12
-applied reinforced filler to bottom filler panel where it meets the body to create a radius transition
- cut the filler with a cheese grater
-blocked the filler with 40 grit
-blocked 40 with 8” grit
-applied reinforced filler to upper filler panel, top and bottom line where it meets the body to create a radius transition
- cut the filler with a cheese grater
-blocked the filler with 40 grit
-Blocked 40 with 80 grit
-shaped the scoops in prep for the panel to panel transition
-shaped the left rear flare in prep for the panel to panel transition
-started to mask the rear panel for reinforced filler
-finished shaping the lower panel
-applied reinforced filler to the front of the upper and lower filler panels to create the foundation of the transition
-masked the upper and lower filler panel to create a radiused transition
-finished blocking the left front transition with 40 grit
-blocked the left front transition with 80 grit
-removed the masking from the left front fender
-finished the initial shape of the left front flare transition
-ran 40 grit on the inline sander over the left upper filler panel for the door to give it some shape
-tapered down the front edge of the upper filler panel to get a smooth transition
-shaped the sides of the upper filler panel so I can created the radius transition
-started shaping the lower left filler panel with 40 grit on the inline sander
-finished masking for filler
-spread reinforced filler on the right front flare
-cut filler with cheese grater
-blocked reinforced filler with 40 grit
-blocked filler with 80 grit
-removed masking off the right front fender
-shaved down hard edges of the left front fender flare to have a smooth transition
-gave flare a quick shape
-makes left front flare for reinforced filler
-spread reinforced filler on the left front flare transitions
-cut the filler with a cheese grater
-Started to block the filler on the left front flare transition
-finished shaping the right front flare for reinforced filler
-decided the radius of the front flare transitions
-started masking for reinforced filler
-sanded the transition with 40 grit
-finished the rough shape of the transition of the rear panel and quarter panel
-grind down the hard edge on the right front flare so a can make a smooth transition
-marked the shape of the arc
-shaped the flare for reinforced filler
-started the blending of the right door upper filler panel
-masked area for reinforced filler
-got the initial rough shape of the right door upper filler panel with reinforced filler
-started the blending of the r Ight door lower filler panel, ready for body filler
-masked the area for reinforced filler
-spread reinforced filler
-got the initial rough shape of the right door lower filler panel with reinforced filler, ready for body filler
-shaped the right rear flare, ready for reinforced filler
-grind down area where the panels meet to bare metal on the left door
-set the lower filler panel on the left door
-marked the position
-masked for grinding
-grind down area where the panels meet to bare metal
-set up the lower panel, flare and, front of rocker panel on the left fender
-marked the position
-grind down area where the panels meet to bare metal
-placed panels onto left door and, fender to mark out the location for holes
-drilled holes through the panels and door
-dry fit the panels with cleco
-masked door and fender for bonding
-prepped for bonding
-bonded the left flare, upper and lower filler panels
-placed lower filler panel onto right door and marked its location
-masked for grinding
-grind down area where the panels meet to bare metal
-place upper and lower panel onto right door, marker out the location for holes
-drilled holes through the panels and door
-dry fit the panels with cleco
-masked door and fender for bonding
-prepped for bonding
-bonded the right flare, upper and lower filler panels
-trimmed upper filler panel back
-set the upper filler panel on the left door
-marked the position
-masked for grinding
-set the upper filler panel on the right door
-marked the position
-masked for grinding
-grind down area where the panels meet to bare metal
-set up the flare an front of rocker panel on the right fender
-marked the position
-grind down area where the panels meet to bare metal
-prepped the back side of the left rear panels
-prepped a few spots to be filled
-prepped the holes for the rearview mirror in the left door
-masked the left quarter panel for bonding
-bonded the panel to the left quarter panel
-removed masking
3/15
-installed and marked the position of the panels
-removed the panels
-masked the right quarter panel for bonding
-filled the couple spots
-filled the holes for the rear view mirror
-bonded the panels to the right quarter panel
-installed panels on the left quarter panel
-marked the position of the panels
-grind down the area where the panels contact to bare metal
3/14
-sanded the right quarter panel for the bonding of the rear flare and panels
-reinforced the back side of the left and right rear panels
-identified and marked a couple area that need to be filled
-ground the spots down to metal
-grind down areas around the rear view mirror holes for filling
3/13
-realized the door and fender needed to be sanded some more
-continued sanding door and fender
-put a radius on the edge of the door
-made sure the door can open
-got the rough shape of the large center section of the deck lid
-got the rough shape of the left door and fender
-cut the door and fender apart
-started working on the gap
-sanded deck lid
-adjusted the latch to drop the deck lid a little
-wiped another coat on the deck lid
-sanded the left door and fender
-spot wiped the door and fender
-wiped the roof
-cut the roof the cheese grater
-ground down the high spots on the on the center of the hood
-wiped dura-glass on the back edge of the hood
-cut the dura-glass the cheese grater
-cut the filler in the deck lid
-spread another layer of filler
-spread filler on the back of the roof
-spread filler on the lower left door and fender under the body line
-cut the door and fender with a cheese grater
-applied another layer of filler to the lower left door and fender under the body line
-cut the deck lid with a cheese grater while the door was drying
-spread another layer on the deck lid
-cut the door and fender with 40 grit
-spread filler on the lower door and fender under the body line
-started to cut the deck lid while the door and fender was drying
-continued body working the right fender and door
-spread filler on the deck lid
-started shaping the filler in the deck lid
-spread filler to even out left door and fender
-gave the filler a rough cut with the “ cheese grater”
-prepped area for filler on the right door and fender
-spread filler on the right door and fender
-started to give the filler a rough cut with the “cheese grater”
-placed taillight panel into vehicle, set it where it needs to be, and marked it so I can put it back afterwards
-prepped area to bonded
-bonded tail light panel
-rough feather chipping previous repairs
-sanded surrounding area with 180 on the d.a. Sander
-epoxy primed a few bare metal spots
2/29
-chamfered the meeting edges of both quarter panels, and both quarter panel extensions
-chamfered the meeting edges of the rear body panel and the new tail light panel
-placed extensions onto the quarter panels where they’re supposed to be and marked them some can reposition the later
-removed extensions
-sanded the quarter panels, rear body panel, and quarter extensions for bonding
-bonded the extensions to the quarter panels
2/28
-Scribed the body of the vehicle where the flare meets the body
-removed the four flare from the vehicle
-refined the scribe lines to make it flow a little better
-cut the scribe lines on both quarter panels
-cleaned up cuts
-masked up area
-panel bonded cuts
2/27
-marked and measured the cut out for relief cuts
-relief cut the big patch
-sanded the four flares for adhesion
-clean the four flare
-set to the are so I can start fiber glassing
-mixed up resin
-fiber glassed the four flares with the final layer
-put the relief cuts in pig patch for the right front flare
-made a template of the left front flare, to make a top layer
-transferred the template over to the fiberglass mat
-cut-out the shape
-measured and marked out for relief cuts
-puts the relief cuts in the big patch for the left front flare
-made a template of the right rear flare, to make a top layer
-transferred the template over to the fiberglass mat
-cut-out the shape
-measured and marked out for relief cuts
-puts the relief cuts in the big patch for the right rear flare
-made a template of the left rear flare, to make a top layer
2/23
-Finished cutting out the 2 layers of patches for the left front flare
-fiber glassed the patches to the left and right front flare
- made a template of the right front flare
-transferred the template over to the fiberglass mat
-cut-out the shape
-measured and marked out for relief cuts
-saturated the material with resin on the left and right front flares
-cut out 2 layers of patches for the right front flare
-started to cut out the patches for the left front flare
-finished making the skeleton of the right front fender flare
-stretched material over the right front flare
-stretched material over the left front flare
-popped the strips of the forms
-started building the skeleton of the fender flare
-needed more strips, put the radius in son more strips
-Finished building the skeleton of the left front flare
-marked out my locations to drill on the right front flare
-drilled hole
-split the right front flare
-measured and figured the span of the gap
-made supports to lock in the span of the right front flare
-bonded the supports
-made fiber glass “strips" for the skeleton
-put the correct radius in the strips
-continued building the skeleton of the left front flare
-made two fiberglass strips two make the skeleton with
-got the span of the of the stretch
-measure and cut supports to lock-in the stretch
-bonded the supports
-trimmed the excess off of the left front flare
-started putting the correct radius in some of the strips
-started building the skeleton of the flare
-measured and cut out mat patches for the right rear flare
-gave the rear flare a quick scuff
-fiber glassed the patches to the right rear flare
-measured and scribed cut lines on the left front flare
-split the left front flare
-started to figure out the stretch of the left front flare
-finished making the skeleton of the right flare
-stretched material over the skeleton
-saturated the material in resin
-Marked out cut lines in the right front fender
-fiber glassed patches on left rear flare
-set the stretch
-cut out the supports
-temporarily bonded the supports to lock the stretch in place
-trimmed excess off of the flare
-measured for the strips to create the skeleton
-cut the strips to size
-used the forms to put the correct radius in the strips
-started to build the skeleton of the flare
-finished the skeleton of the left fender flare
-removed left rear wheel
-removed right rear wheel and, put the correct wheel on the right rear
-measured and marked what need to be trimmed off the right flare
-starter to measure out the span on the stretch for supports
-finished bonding the supports so I can maintain the stretch in the flare
-made a few forms out of wood so I can put the correct radius in the fiberglass strips
-started creating the “skeleton” of the flare with the strips of fiberglass the I put the radius in
-popped the form off from the hood extension
-added a little Matt and resin to the right corner
-once dried gave a rough shape. Jus a quick clean up, need the header panel on the vehicle to really shape it
-measured and marked the right rear flare
-split the right flare in half for stretching
-picked up on the left flare
-measured and marked the left flare
-trimmed away excess material
-measured the distance and made supports to stretch the flare
-started temporarily bonding the supports
-started shaving extensions that I made on the hood
-realized after shaping the extensions, the front of the whole front of the hood needs to be extended
-made the form for the extension
-measured and cut material for the extension
-mix up resin and got set up to pour
-poured the resin
-removed upper header panel for “wedging”
-install the right rear flare so it can be widened
-finished trimming up the lower filler panel.
-started to sand the inside of the panel where it meets the doo to make it sit more flush to the body
-removed the front lower half of the bumper
-installed the upper header panel
-Set up the extend the hood the meet up with the header panel
-poured the resin
2/7
-trimmed and cleaned up the lower filler panels
-measured and cut out mat for glassing
-got everything prepared and mixed up resin
-fiber glassed the inside of the lower panel
-once dry, started trimming up the lower filler panel
-marked, cut out, and set up mat for fiber glassing
-mixed up resin and fiber glassed the inside of the left upper body line filler panel
-mixed up resin and fiber glassed the outside of the left lower filler panel
-once dry, trimmed up the left upper filler panel
-once dry, cut out the lower filler panel
-ran a string line to set the body line on the left door
-made supports, temporarily bonded them to the vehicle, then back cut them.
-temporarily bonded the fiberglass sheet to the door making the top part of the lower body line filler panel
-stretched material from the fiber glass sheet to the rocker molding
-saturated the material with resin
-added second layer to the outside in the left upper body line filler panel
-cleaned up and fiber glassed the inside of the right lower door filler panel
-finished stretching material from the scoop to the rocker panel
-cut up some mat to add a second layer to the outside of the top body line filler panel
-mixed up some resin and got set up to lay out the mat
-saturated the material that was stretched with resin, and laid out the second layer of mat on the right upper body line filler panel
-went to work on the left side and noticed the door needed a little adjusting.
-helped Tyler adjust the door
-the line moved after the door was adjusted, so I re-ran the string line
-popped off the old supports, made new supports,
Temporarily bonded them to the door, then back cut the support for clearance
-temporarily bonded the two fiberglass sheets to get the initial shape of the upper body line filler panel, the initial shape is complete and ready for further glassing
-marked and measured the location for the lower body line filler panel
1/29
-started to stretch material from the top part of the of the filler panel to the rocker panel
-set the top line with string on the left door
-made supports, temporarily bonded them to the vehicle, then back cut them.
-trimmed down the fiberglass panel to get a better fit.
-temporarily bonded the top sheet of fiberglass to the upper body line on the left door.
1/26
-finished trimming fiberglass sheets
-made supports, temporarily bonded them to the vehicle, then back cut them.
-temporarily bonded the top two pieces to the vehicle to create the initial shape of the upper body line filler panel on the right door. The upper body line panel is ready for further glassing
-temporarily bonded a sheet to the top part of the lower body line to create the lower body line filler panel.
-set both scoops on the vehicle
-taped string from the fender to the scoops to get the measurements for the panels that have to be made to transition the scoop through the door
-marked and made templates for the filler panels
-transferred templates over to mat
-laid out the mat and poured resin
-popped the fiberglass sheets off the “mold”
-started trimming the fiberglass sheets to size
-finished get the rough shape of the right scoop
-started shaping the left scoop
—cut material, poured out resin and got situated to fiberglass the backside of the scoops
-laid out the fiberglass mat
-removed the header panel
-prepped the inside of the header panel for epoxy primer
-mixed up the epoxy primer
-started shaping the (R) scoop
1/22
-finished working on the part the meets the body in the left scoop
-masked off a couple areas to protect from the resin
-set up scoop into the vehicle
-cut up some mat and got everything ready for fiberglass
-fiber glassed the small voids and make the scoop sit flush against the body
-started shaping the fiberglass the I laid on the right scoop
-marked out a template, so I can cut out the back piece
-cut and test fit template until I got the shape
-sheared the back piece to the left scoop
-started shaping the back edge to get it to transition into the body smoothly
-cut out the back piece and trimmed it down to fit
-adhered the back piece to the scoop
-set the right scoop up on the vehicle
-fiber glassed the gaps
-started setting up left scoop to do the same
-trimmed down the excess fiberglass
-filled a couple holes with resin
-made a template for the inside pieces of the scoop
-started setting up left scoop to put the pieces together
-fiber glassed the lip extension on both quarter panel scoops
-set up flares to make templates so I can extend the inner lip
-marked and cut the templates
-glued structure so I can fiberglass the lip extension
-applied reins to the structure
-fished up the shaping on the scoops
-set the scoops in the vehicle with tape
-installed and removed the front bumper a couple times to get the figment
-removed the front flares to trim the length down a little it was pushing the bumper
-installed the front bumper
-installed the flares
-removed left rear flare to trim back a little, to give more clearance for the scoop
-placed left scoop on the quarter panel
-the placement of the scoop was off, Ran a few measurements and set the scoop where it should be
-the new position of the scoop me it overlap the door, marked out where the scoop needs to be trimmed
-trimmed the edge back to meet the edge of the quarter panel.
-cut out the center of the scoop to give a better transition
-started shaping the surface the touches the quarter panel to make the scoop sit on the quarter panel flush
-placed right scoop on the quarter panel
-the placement of the scoop was off, Ran a few measurements and set the scoop where it should be
-the new position of the scoop me it overlap the door, marked out where the scoop needs to be trimmed
-trimmed the edge back to meet the edge of the quarter panel.
-cut out the center of the scoop to give a better transition
-removed the studs off of the left scoop
-quick touch up on the left side of the upper valance
-installed the front bumper
-placed scoop on the right quarter panel to see what had to get trimmed on the flare
-marked the flare for what need to be trimmed and drilled so it can be clecoed into place
-drilled the holes in the right rear flare
-removed flare
-trimmed rear flare and clecoed into place
-marked the front right flare to be trimmed
-finished shaping the outside left corner of the upper valance
-went over the valance with 80grit
-rounded over the sharp edges
-removed masking and sanded a little more to make sure the edge was not sitting above the
Fender
-finished shaping the outside right corner of the upper valance
-shaped the inside of the right side of the upper valance
-shaped the inside of the left side of the upper valance
-started shaping the outside of the left corner of the upper valance
-adjusted the header panel, got the fitment
-marked out the body lines
-masked the fender to protect drone shaping
-started shaping the right side of the header panel
-trimmed and cleaned up excess fiberglass
-cleaned up the backside of the header panels so it can be bolted up
-cleaned up the threads with a thread chaser
-installed header panel
-finished up the rough shaping of the right side of the upper valance
-marked the left side of the upper valance
-started shaping the left side of the upper valance
12/1 & 12/4
-measured and marked what needed to be trimmed and shaved to get the left front fender flare to fit against the body better
-shaved the lower corner to get it to sit more flush to the body
-trimmed the outside radius of the fender flare
-removed and installed the flare a few times to check adjustments
-finished the rough fit of the two front flare
-relocated the mounting bracket that holds the bumper to the fender. To get the bumper and fender to sit flush
-brought over the front upper valance
-knocked off the supports
-Shaved down and cleaned up around the nutsert so I can get the bolt to thread
-used a thread chase to clean up the threads
-Installed the front upper valance
-masked the leading edges of the fender so I can shape the upper valance
-started shaping the right side
11/30/22
-finished supporting the relief cut on the upper valance
-removed the upper valance so it can be fiber glassed
-measured and marked what needed to be trimmed and shaved to get the right front fender flare to fit against the body better
-shaved the lower corner to get it to sit more flush to the body
-trimmed the outside radius of the fender flare
-removed and installed the flare a few times to check adjustments
-finished the rough shape on the left side of the upper valance
-put a few relief cuts in the upper valance to relive tension
-started gluing supports to the cuts, for glassing
-finished the rough shape on the right side of the upper valance
-marked out the left side where it need to be shaved
-started shaving and shaping the left side of the upper valance
11/28/2023 5:06 PM
-removed front lower valance
-installed the upper valance
-marked out the areas that need to be shaved
-started shaving and shaping upper valance
-set up vehicle to be worked on
-went over the line, realized it had to come down
-measured and marked
-did the minor adjustments and got the line where it needs to be
-marked out the left side
-shave and shaped the left headlight surround the fit the vehicle
-went as far as I could on the left side. It needs to be removed and back glassed so I can continue shaping
-removed the head light surrounds so the can be glassed
-set up vehicle to be worked on
-continued shaping and shaving the right head light surround
-got the rough shape of the right surround
-set up vehicle to be worked on
-aligned deck lid
-marked the body line on both fenders
-marked headlight surrounds where they need to be trimmed to they can be flush to the fender
-stares shaving and shaping the right headlight surround
-set up vehicle to be worked on
-continued working the deck lid
-finished gapping the deck lid
-removed decklid and marked for trimming
-rounded over the edges of the deck lid
-reinstalled deck lid
-started aligning decklid
-set up vehicle to be worked on
-continued working the deck lid
-measure and marked for trimming
-removed deck lid
-Trimmed down the deck lid
-reinstalled the deck lid
-repeated above steps a few of times
-got the deck lid to fit
-started gapping the deck lid
-set up vehicle to be worked on
-continued working the deck lid
-measure and marked for trimming
-removed deck lid
-Trimmed down the deck lid
-reinstalled the deck lid
-repeated above steps a few of times
-set up vehicle to be worked on
-continued lining up the extensions
-sanded and shaped the left extension to fit a little more flush. When the bolt would tighten don it would pull the extension in closing the gap
-notice the deck lid was still sticking out further than it should
-removed the deck to trim the inside so it can open when it’s pushed closer
-measure and marked for trimming
-Trimmed down the deck lid
-measure, and found the center of the decklid
-reinstalled the decklid
-stated adjusting the deck lid
-set up vehicle to be worked on
-adjusted the latch where it needed to be
-readjusted the deck lid
-removed both quarter panel extensions
-cut the end caps off of both of the extensions
-removed material from the extension to correct the gap between the extensions and deck lid
-started lining up the extensions
-set up vehicle to be worked on
-marked areas to be trimmed on the tail light panel
-removed tail light panel
-trimmed tail light panel
-installed tail light panel and checked for fitment
-got the fitment of the tail light panel to rear body panel
-removed the catch off the old deck lid
-installed catch onto the new deck lid
-check the fitment
-removed shim, and placed thinner shim on the left side
-opened the holes to adjust latch
-set up vehicle to be worked on
-went over the fitment of the tail light panel,
It needed to be sunk further in to give a smooth continuous transition between the three pieces
-removed both quarter panel extensions
-marked areas to be trimmed on the tail light panel
-removed tail light panel
-trimmed tail light panel
-installed tail light panel and checked for fitment
-repeated the last 5 steps many times
10/26-10/27
-set up vehicle to be worked on
-installed, marked, trimmed, and checked fitment of the left quarter panel extension a whole lot of times
-got the initial fitment between the extension and the tail light panel
-trimmed the bottom edge of the deck lid to get a better fit
-stopped there until I get the taillight bracket properly mounted
-installed the hood(*hood still needs adjusting)
-set up vehicle to be worked on
-removed taillight panel
-measured trunk opening, found the center
-measure the tail light panel, found the center
-centered up the tail light panel
-marked the studs on the right quarter panel extension
-trimmed the excess stud length off the right extension
-installed, marked, trimmed, and reinstalled the extension to check for fitment many MANY times
-got the fitment of the twilight panel to right quarter panel extension
-marked studs on the left quarter panel extension
-removed the left quarter panel
-cut the excess stud length off the left extension
-set up vehicle to be worked on
-continued the alignment of the deck lid
-realized the hinges needed adjustment
-opened the holes on the hinges
-took the decklid on and off a few times while adjusting for fitment
-got the initial fitment of the decklid complete
-noticed there was excess resins built up on the inside “jamb” portion of the right quarter panel extension, which was causing the whole extension to shift way out of place once the decklid was shut
-removed the right quarter panel extension
-shaved and reshaped the “jamb” area of the extension
-installed, uninstalled, and fine tuned to get the fitment
-shaved down the backside of the deck lid and which comes in contact with the quarter panel extension
-got the deck lid to shut with out shifting the quarter panel extension
-placed tail light panel on vehicle to start the fitment process
-set up vehicle to be worked on
-removed the deck lid, shaved, and checked for fitment a few times
-got the decklid to fit into the space
-removed deck lid
-rounded the edges of the decklid
-reinstalled the decklid
-started to do the alignment of the decklid
-set up vehicle to be worked on
-test fit left quarter extension
-opened up the holes to adjust the fitment of the extension
-test fit the left quarter extension
-got the left quarter extension fitted up
-test fit right quarter extension
-opened up the holes to adjust the fitment of the extension
-test fit the right quarter extension
-got the right quarter extension fitted up
-test fitted the deck lid
-noticed I need to remove length to get the deck lid to line up with the extension
-removed deck lid, shaved and shaped to get fitted
-repeated the above step quite a few time
-set up vehicle to be worked on
-assessed the panels after the dry fit
-panels did not fit correctly, came up with a quick game plan on where to start the modifications for fitment
-removed the two quarter panel extensions
-removed deck lid
-set up deck lid and marked the edge to be trimmed
-trimmed the deck lid
-set up vehicle to be worked on
-brought down the hood
-brought down the decklid
-brought down the quarter extension
-brought down tail light panel
-removed hood
-removed deck lid
-removed side panels from inside trunk
-removed filler neck panel
-removed two rear panels
-removed back panel by rear seats
-removed floor panel
-removed taillights
-removed rear bumper
-places rear twilight panel on vehicle for dry fit to see where she’s at
-placed two quarter extensions by the Taillights of vehicle for dry fit to see where she’s at
-dry fit the decklid
-set up vehicle to be worked on
-brought down the front upper and lower
-brought down fender flares
-removed front bumper
-removed grille trim
-removed grille surround
-removed grille
-removed fog lights
-removed fog light housing
-removed upper center valance
-removed lower valance and spoiler
-removed both outer painted headlight bezels
-removed both inner headlight bezels
-removed both headlights
-removed panels on both side to access bolts, so I can remove the head light buckets
-removed headlight buckets
-removed bumper brackets
Paint & Body
with Drew
& Bucky
-
The objective is simple: Get the body ready for Paint
-
sanded down the anterior body transitions as flush as possible.
assisted Jio making cuts and forming the hood shape and gap.
driver side is good. Passenger side is the next task.
mixed 30g of Rage optex
dried too rapidly even with 1%
wiped, sanded, mixed
some paint also came off. So I scraped and blew to ensure it will not continue to fall off. Will mark area.
sanded passenger side. 120 grit. Under door, on the door, around the door.
forgot to clock into the job at 11
sanded rear section of the passenger side with 120 grit.
sanded near trunk with 120 grit and passed over to driver side as well.
sanded rear section of the driver side with 120 grit.
[PASSENGER SIDE]
Sanded down to get the shape as close as possible without sanding the edges.
Smoothed out as much rough spots as possible whilst limiting material loss.
[DRIVER SIDE]
sanded down upper fender. 80 to 120
sanded lower fender 120
sanded upper door 120
sanded mid door 120
sanded lower door 120
sanded fiberglass panels with 80 grit
Sanded down. Millimeters away from curvature.
sanded at least a half a layer down. To reveal panel seal.
add 2 layers. Sand. Added 2 layers. Sand. Added 1 layer. Drying.
Sanded radius to 3/4"
added small layer of filler to smooth out surface
added side lip to catch and fill the edge up to 3/4"
marked out where the edge needs to be raised.
to reach 3/4" it will be a slow process of adding and shaping for both sides.
added another layer of Rage Optex to driver side rear fender flare. Still pinkish. Hopefully in ~20mins it will have dried out enough to shape.
Passenger rear fender flare, new fill added to low spots. Nearing a good point. Letting dry.
driver side rear fender flare. New fill added. Letting it dry before sanding. Consistency of filler is good.
Passenger rear fender flare is almost there. Still gotta measure curvature to lip.
Driver rear fender flare has been filled and sanded 3x. Latest pass was seconds ago. It needs to dry, then sanded and filled.
back passenger fender flare filled up 63% of the little pockets. Allotted time to dry ~15 mins before I can sand.
back passenger fender flare is almost set. Getting very close.
mixed 64g of Rage and spread some hardener the length of the diameter. That seemed to do the trick. Best spread so far. Waiting for paint to dry before anymore work is done.
made 60g of Rage optex, used 1% hardener.
filled in the Driver side profile
filled passenger side profile
allowed it to dry
added final pass of Optex, tomorrow morning should be the final sanding for driver side.
worked duraglass, 30g and .3g of cream hardener. Did that 2x. Drew showed me the third time how to spread it uniformly.
sanded down started with 80 grit, finished with 120. Sanded out harsh angles to prevent air pockets from forming.
added 30g of filler. Letting dry
Added a total of 60g for two passes of filler. Letting harden.
30.0g of Rage Optex + .3g of cream hardener. (X2) filled in driver side wide body fender.
Waiting for it to dry more before adding more in order to file down for shape.
Sanded down section. Difficulty 100 due to curvature, made a few flatspots that are going to be rectified next fill.
made 51.2g of Rage Optex premium filler, mixed 1% of cream hardener. Applied it to drivers side panel + headlight panel.
waiting to sand it down.
helped set up two layers of fiberglass into the inner structure of the Passenger side of the hood.
relief cuts for passenger side hood. Made so we can bend and rotate the side flange to better allign the panels for a neat flush look.
Sanded down the section where the fender and door meet. So that when a ruler is applied it shows a single gradient.
Sanded down all filler, both driver and passenger side.
Awaiting more filler to be added.
worked on the anterior body line. Sanded both driver and passenger side down, and used a ruler to see high/low spots. Adjusted sanding as needed. Drew mixed 40.0g of Rage Optex premium filler and added 0.4g of creme hardener. Drew is working on the Passenger side Whilst I am working on the Driver side.
Setting the hood by making relief cuts to shape it properly
front wide body fender flare required 120 grit x3 passes, 80 grit x2 passes, saw blade x2 passes, 40 grit x3 passes.
3 passes [120 grit] side fender panel.
Added tape to various areas in prep for both Drew and Jio
made 4 more passes with a small roller block. [120 grit] To smooth out the section along the driver's door.
made 2 passes along driver side door and upper sil smoothing out roughness w/ 120-grit soft block and soft roller.
made 4 passes on the driver-side front fender using a soft block with 120 grit.