Project: 1969

Chevrolet

Camaro

Status: Completed

History

The 1969 Chevrolet Camaro was the most popular year for the first generation of Camaros, with over 700,000 built.

The 1969 model had a redesigned exterior with new sheet metal, deeper headlights, and a heavy V front grille. It also had squared-off fender tops and a trailing crease in the body line.

What did ESC do exactly?

- Hot cam LS3 custom in house tuning

- Hooker headers

- Aeromotive phantom in tank pump and regulator

- 2much charcoal canister

- Custom hidden fuel tank

- Shaved and smoothed firewall

- Mini tubbed

- American powertrain TKO 5 speed

- Fully built 12 bolt with 3.73

- Baer brakes

- Full custom stainless steel exhaust with hooker VR304 mufflers

- Borgeson steering box

- Hydratech hydro boost setup

- Custom built intake and box

- PWR radiator with dual fans

- Full RideTech suspension with coilovers front and rear

- TMI interior

- Custom carbon fiber center console with Watson Street Works switches

- Dakota digital gauges

- Vintage Air

- Complete Dynamat inside

- Full JL audio system, C3 fronts and C2 rear 10W3 JL 900/5

- Pioneer halo unit

- Fesler flush glass front and rear

- Shaved drip rails

- Shaved and smoothed door handles

- Holley headlights

- Carbon fiber bumpers and custom carbon front lip

- Deep Black paint PPG

Carbon fiber bumpers and custom carbon front lip

Facts

Here are some facts about the 1969 Chevrolet Camaro:

Engine

The 1969 Camaro had 12 different engine options, including a 302 cubic inch (CID) OHV V8 engine with 290 horsepower at 5,800 RPM and 290 ft-lbs of torque at 4,200 RPM. However, some say the engine produces over 375 horsepower at 7,000 RPM and over 330 ft-lbs of torque.

Transmission

The 1969 Camaro had several transmission options, including a two-speed "Powerglide" automatic, a four-speed manual, and a three-speed "Turbo Hydra-Matic 350" automatic. Six-cylinder models also had the option for a semi-automatic "Torque-Drive" two-speed transmission.

Performance

The 1969 Camaro Z/28 has a 0–60 time of 7.4 seconds and a quarter mile time of 15.12 seconds at 94.8 miles per hour, with a top speed of over 135 miles per hour.

Dimensions

The 1969 Camaro is 16’2” long, 6’2” wide, and has 5” of ground clearance. It also has a wheelbase of 8’12”.

Interior

The standard interior has vinyl-covered cardboard door panels with padded armrests. Custom interiors may have the armrests molded into the panels.

Other features

The 1969 Camaro may also have optional features like an RPO D33 remote-controlled left-hand sideview mirror.

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Paint & Body

with Jio

    • hammer and dolly the inside of the right fender to sort out the buckle

    • valley out multiple cracks in the right fender

    • knocked down hard edges with 80 on the DA

    • valley out cracks on the left fender

    • knocked down the hard edges with 80 grit on the DA

    • tight wiped the feathered cracks on both fenders with reinforced filler

    • cut filler with a cheese grater

    • blocked the filler on both fenders with 40grit

    • blocked 40grit with 80 grit

    • spread body filler on the right fender

    • cut filler with a cheese grater

    • blocked body filler with 40-grit

    • blocked 40grit with 80 grit

    • tight wiped the fender with polyester glazing putty

    • grind down the remains welds from the spoiler on the right corner

    • finished up the grind

    • knocked down hard edges with 4 on the DA

    • sanded the area in Prep for filler

    • spread reinforced filler on the bottom of the lower valances

    • cut reinforced filler with a cheese grater

    • sanded reinforced filler with 40 on the DA

    • spread body filler on the bottom of the lower valance

    • cut the body filler with a cheese grater

    • started to sand the body filler with 40 grit on the inline sander

    • removed front bumper

    • finished remove the bulk of the filler with the inline sande

    • sanded the smaller sections with 40 grit in the DA sander

    • started blocking the body filler to rough up the shape

    • spot filled a few spots that remained low

    • blocked the spots with 40

    • blocked the spots with 80

    • wiped polyester glazing putty

    • quickly blocked the polyester glazing putty with 40 to get the rough shape

    • filled a couple of spots that were still low with polyester glazing putty

    • blocked the spot wipes quickly with 40-grit

    • blocked all the glazing putty with 80-grit

    • hammer and Dollied a big dent next to the fog light

    • sanded the repair with 80 grit in prep for filler

    • wiped repair with body filler

    • blocked the repair 40 grit, then 80 grit

    • wiped the repair with polyester glazing putty

    • knocked down the ridges with 40-grit

    • blocked the putty with 80-grit

    • blocked all repairs with 120-grit

    • started detail sanding a few recessed areas to finish up the repair. The final stage of the filler work, then primer.

    • finished up the detail sanding on the recessed areas

    • sanded around the repair with 180 on the DA sander

    • sanded around the 180 grit with 400 grit to finish off the repair

    • went and hand sanded the edges and remaining shinny spot

    • gave the repairs a quick blow off and wipe with a dry rag to remove dust

    • cleaned the repairs with wax and grease remover

    • started outlining the repairs with tape in prep for first rounds of primer

    • finished outlining the repair with tape

    • swept the floor so tape can stick

    • bagged off the vehicle with plastic to protect from overspray

    • taped the plastic to the floor to prevent overspray creeping from underneath the vehicle

    • cut the repair out of the plastic

    • wiped down repairs with wax and grease remover

    • applied 3 coats of super high build primer

    • went around and spot filled the pinholes that didn’t fill with primer

    • shaved Down the filler and specs in the primer

    • blocked primer with 180

    • blocked primer with 320, then 320 on a soft block

    • blocked primer with 400, then 400 on a soft block

    • removed bumper brackets

    • went around and did the detail sanding. Around the fog light the inner fender lip etc.

    • sanded the repair with 400 on the DA

    • cut the fenders out of the plastic

    • taped the leading edge of the door and hood to prevent scratches

    • sanded bother fender with 600 on the da

    • sanded both fenders with 600 on an interface pad

    • gave the vehicle a quick blow-off and wiped down with a dry rag to see areas I didn’t get

    • scotch brite by hand the remaining shiny spots

    • grabbed front chin spoiler

    • bolted up spoiler

    • measured for stretching the spoiler

    • measured and marked the spoiler

    • cut the spoiler into three pieces

    • measured and marked the filler panels

    • cut the filler panels to size

    • bonded the filler panels to the left side

    • made a couple bends and trimmed them into place for the radiused corners

    • started bonding the filler panels to the right side of the spoiler

    • Finished bonding the right side of the spoiler

    • made a couple of bends and trimmed them into place for the radiused corners

    • sanded the areas that stretched to make everything level

    • made end caps for both sides of the spoiler so the spoiler can wrap around the corners

    • sealed off the edges so I can wax the spoiler

    • Removed clamps

    • removed spoiler from vehicle

    • trimmed back the excess fiberglass

    • applied 4 coats of wax to the parts of the spoiler that I couldn’t reach/was difficult when it was attached to the vehicle

    • glassed a layer over the parts the I waxed

    • let the first layer kick

    • glassed a second layer

    • removed clamps

    • trimmed back any excess fiberglass

    • popped the spoiler form the mold

    • filled a few small gaps with glue

    • shaped the few small spot

    • filled a bigger gap with polyester filler

    • blocked the filler

    • filled 5 more areas I thought would cause issue later down the road

    • blocked the other areas I filled

    • blew off and wiped down part with dry rag

    • clean with wax and grease remover

    • applied 4 coats of wax

    • measured mold and cut carbon to length

    • fit the carbon on the mold and trimmed the major excess off

    • laid the carbon in the mold

    • mixed and pour the resin onto the carbon

    • shaved down the last little spot fills on the spoiler

    • blocked the areas that I shaved with 180

    • blocked the 180 scratches with 320

    • blocked the 320 scratches with 400

    • blocked the 400 scratches with 600

    • buzzed the spoiler with 600 on the DA sander

    • sanded the edges with a sanding sponge

    • set up the spoiler on a stand

    • applied 3 coats of clear

    • came back 3 hrs later to remove from the booth

    • quickly masked the edges to prevent scratching adjacent panels in the wet sand and buff process

    • skated 2000 grit to identify imperfections

    • shaved down the imperfection

    • LEFT FENDER

    • blocked the spots I shaved with 800 grit

    • blocked the 800 with 1200 grit

    • blocked the 1200 with 1500 grit

    • blocked the 1500 with 2000 grit

    • buzzed the fender with 2000 on the DA sander to soften the scratches

    • buzzed the fender with 2000 on the DA sander with an interface pad to even everything out

    • RIGHT FENDER

    • started blocking the spots I shaved with 800-grit

    • RIGHT FENDER

      • finished blocking the spots with 800

    • blocked the 800 with 1200 grit

    • blocked the 1200 with 1500grit

    • blocked the 1500 with 2000 grit

    • buzzed the fender with 2000 on the DA sander to soften the scratches

    • buzzed the fender with 2000 on the DA sander with an interface pad to even everything out

    • buzzed both fenders with 3000 trizact flat

    • buzzed both fenders with 3000 trizact on an interface pad to even out all the scratches

    • skated 2000 grit across the spoiler to identify the imperfections

    • shaved the imperfections

    • sanded the spots I shaved with 800 grit

    • sanded the 800 with 1200 grit

    • sanded the 1200 with 1500grit

    • sanded the 1500 with 2000grit

    • buzzed the spoiler with 2000 on the DA to even out all the scratches

    • buzzed the 2000 with 3000 trizact on the DA flat

    • buzzed the spoiler with 3000 trizact on the interface pad

    • buffed the spoiler with step 1

    • polished the spoiler with step 2 on the rotary buffer

    • polished the spoiler with step 2 on the random orbit polisher

    • buffed both fenders with step 1

    • started to polish the left fender with step 2 on the rotary buffer

    • finished polishing both fender with step 2 on the rotary buffer

    • went back and buffed a few rouge scratches with step 1

    • polished those areas with step 2 on the rotary buffer

    • polished both fender with step 2 on the random orbit polisher

    • blew off the dust

    • reinstalled both fog lights

    • reinstalled front bumper brackets

    • reinstalled front bumper

    • reinstalled the carbon spoiler

    • opened up hood and started to clean up the buffing residues

    • removed the masking that prevented the car from being caked in compound

    • the hood had a bunch of minor scratches that the vehicle came in with so we decided to fresh it up

    • buffed the hood and fender tops with a wool pad and step 1

    • buffed the hood and fender tops with a foam pad and step 1

    • polished the hood with step 2 on the Rotary buffer

    • polished the hood with step 2 on the random orbital buffer

    • blew off and wiped down the vehicle with a microfiber cloth to remove the compound residues

    • opened up all the jambs and wiped them down

    • touched up a couple of spots

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