Project: 1979

Ford

Bronco

ESC

Progress on this 1979 Ford Bronco

Ford 400 Modified Motor

NP 435 Transmission (Factory 4 speed)

NP 205 Atlas Twin Stick Transfer Case

American Autowire Classic Update Harness

Vintage Air Surefit A/C Kit

Custom Built and Integrated AMP Powersteps All the metal work, alignment, and gapping were done in-house, firewall has been filled and smoothed.

Along with building out custom mounts to run AMP power-steps.

Currently in the process of building a custom interior for the rear that will house a hybrid subwoofer box, JL Audio speakers and subwoofer, and a hidden amp rack.

History

and Facts

Here are some facts about the 1979 Ford Bronco:

  • Body style

    The second-generation Bronco was a three-door wagon with a lift-off rear hardtop.

  • Chassis

    The Bronco was based on the 1973–1979 Ford F-100 pickup truck chassis, but was about a foot shorter and had a 104-inch wheelbase.

  • Off-road features

    The Bronco had optional dual shocks for the front suspension, heavy-duty rear shocks, and front and rear sway bars.

  • Engines

    The Bronco had two standard V8 engines, a 5.8-liter (351-cid) and a 6.6-liter (400-cid).

  • In 1979, the 351 gained 2 horsepower to 158 and the 400 lost 2 horsepower to 156.

  • Both engines had low horsepower output and poor acceleration for the size of the vehicle, and they consumed a lot of fuel.

  • Transmission

    The Bronco had a three-speed automatic transmission and two four-speed manual transmissions.

  • Drive system

    The Bronco had a part-time and full-time 4x4 system.

  • Interior

    The front seats came in several configurations, including low-back bucket seats, a bench seat, high-back buckets, and captain's chairs.

  • The rear seat was flip/fold and could accommodate three people, and there was a footwell for added comfort.

  • Other interior options included sliding rear windows and a padded “GT” bar.

  • Other features

    The Bronco had a power tailgate glass that could be operated from the driver's seat or liftgate area, and it offered five radio options.

Paint & Body

with Tyler

    • Finish body work and paint

    • Keep Original Blue Paint / Top White

    • Remove Antenna Fill Holes

    • Fill Cuts

    • Clean / Flatten Passenger Side Firewall

    • Repair Tail Gate Holes Caution With Tail Gate Switch

    • Addition of "1 touch" Up/Down For Tailgate Window

    • Fit / Fix Drip Rails

    • Remove Grease / Spray Undercarriage

    • Patch Tweeter Cuts in V Pillars

    • Shim Rear Axle For Pinion Angle (Need Block?)

    • *Needs Deflector* (Preferably Replacement for Original)

    Additional Dash Holes to be Filled in When Interior Begins to Go Back Together

  • 79 Bronco Drivers Side Hood Hinge

    Part number: 40-3882

    Qty: 1.00

    79 Bronco Passenger Side Hood Hinge

    Part number: 40-3883

    Qty: 1.00

    • mocked up core support with body mounts

    • hung front fenders

    • mocked up grille

    • mocked up inner fenders

    • unpacked wiring

    • reran some wiring legs for cleanest and most hidden wiring possible in engine bay

    • researched and found parts missing/needed

    • raised core support at body mounts per factory style requirements to raise front of fenders

    • shifted fender forward a small amount and tightened in location

    • moved to the driver-side fender and swapped hardware

    • loomed, routed, and mounted wires going to front left lights and washer bottle

    • started running wires for knock sensor before running wires for engine and passenger side front lights

    • drilled hole for bulkhead in a hidden location

    • ran outer wires through bulkhead hole

    • started swapping fender fasteners for the correct style for vehicles like j clips

    • rehung passenger fender with proper fasteners

    • used shims for the front fender to find the most ideal depth by the door

    • inspected why the front fender sat forward-low

    • inspected and organized under-dash harness

    • mounted location to hold up wires under the dash with a nursery

    • mocked wire routing under the dash with zip ties

    • organized pieces for an electrical bulkhead for engine bay and front lights

    • added some holes in firewall pinchweld to mount wire loom clamps

    • loomed engine and FR lighting wires

    • ran engine bay wiring towards the passenger side against the firewall after adding and removing wires from the loom

    • opened up MSD 6AL-D box and planned box location

    • added mock battery

    • Installed MEGA fuze holder on the inner fender

    • ran and loomed MSD box wiring

    • added/modified holes in the inner fender to run wires through nicely

    • ran all wires through and added length to most to hide them properly in engine bay

    • added end for alternator cable and attached to MEGA fuzes

    • added ends to power harness and MSD

    • finish wired engine and ignition in engine bay area

    • organised all rearward wires to tail lights and fuel tank

    • loomed and ran wires going to rear through frame

    • opened up A/C system boxes and began mocking and planning

    • swapped over old power tailgate window switch to new Vintage Air controls

    • installed A/C condenser

    • Began mocking A/C evaporator/heater core

    • installed front grille upper supports

    • modified hood latch vertical support to make room for condenser

    • installed old grille loosely for Fender mocking purposes

    • continued mocking A/C condenser then removed

    • cut out crescent moon out of firewall where the old heater core would've been

    • measured, stenciled, and cut steel to fill the hole in firewall

    • welded new piece in place and smoothed

    • Drilled holes for MSD box in flattened section

    • Drilled holes for vintage air condenser

    • Located other unneeded holes in firewall

    • shaved down old wiring harness pass through holes

    • Stenciled and cut new pieces out of steel

    • welded pieces in place and shaved flat

    • repeated the measured, stenciled, welded, and finished process for rest of unneeded firewall holes

    • continued wiring towards rear of truck

    • Finished wiring and routing towards rear of truck

    • Added individual power wire to fuel pump

    • Mocked locations for a/c lines in inner fender for looks and for servicability

    • Ordered ends needed for shortening lines in new locations

    • Ordered grommets for custom routing of heater and a/c hoses

    • Drilled holes in inner fender for heater lines and a/c

    • Removed passenger kick panel to add wiring holes for a/c and sound system in the near future

    • Ran and loomed wires for a/c controls and heater valve

    • Trimmed lines coming from evaporator box for proper fitment and mocked up to their respective locations

    • Adjusted the line lengths coming from compressor

    • Finish wired connections going to binary switch on drier that leads to compressor

    • Added mounts for a/c lines in inner fender to keep from vibrating, rubbing, or drooping

    • Reinstalled fenders

    • Reinstalled headlight buckets and grille hangars

    • Unpacked new grille and immediately covered in antiscratch material

    • Installed new grille and new clips with minimal modification

    • Installed old grille center

    • Researched and found what holes on inner fenders and core support that would be used and which won't be used

    • Marked and cleaned paint off of holes

    • Made mock plugs with cardboard for the larger holes where needed

    • Transfered cardboard templates to steel plate

    • Cut out rough sizes out of steel

    • Trimmed and fitted all plugs to their respective locations

    • Began welding plugs in place

    • Made cardboard templates for dash holes where needed

    • Transfered templates to steel and trimmed to fit as nicely as possible

    • Welded dash plugs in place

    • Smoothed plug locations on dash where vents would be for an accurate vent location cutout

    • Welded up small holes to the left of steering column location

    • Smoothed holes out left of the steering column and made sure that the surface wasn't warped at all

    • welded in plug next to cigarette lighter location

    • smoothed out and began heating and shrinking steel to ensure factory shape

    • Heated and shrank holes next to cigarette lighter location as nice as possible, bodying is required to make perfect

    • Finished welding holes on the driver's side inner fender including plug holes.

    • Started welding plugs on core support, finished welding and smoothing will be needed when the truck is taken down again due to proximity to other panels

    • loosened all bolts going to core support, front body mounts, inner fenders, fenders, grille, and cab

    • shifted fenders around to find a more ideal fit to the cab and grille

    • removed one washer from the passenger side core support mount and two from driver side to get front bumper line to match the grille

    • shifted all body mounts and tightened once the ideal location was found

    • methodically tightened all bolts once a more ideal fit was found to the front end

    • found factory-style dash vents (center and passenger side)

    • manually measured for factory vent location on passenger vent

    • transferred necessary measurements to center dual vent location for the most accurate cut

    • test fitted vents in the dash

    • cleaned threads for door hinges (door sides and body sides)

    • installed drivers and then the passenger door

    • minimal adjustment

    • installed hood and began adjustments

    • continued hood adjustments to find where rest of front end needs to shift and what modifications the hood needs to undergo

    • Checked body line and found it was off

    • Removed body mounts on passenger side and trimmed bushings until body line lined up from grille to taillights

    • retightened body mounts in place

    • Continued to adjust hood and found that passenger side nose needs to come back to close a gap between front of hood and grille

    • Loosened core support mounts

    • Removed passenger side headlight bucket

    • Loosened inner fender to firewall bolts

    • Shifted entire passenger nose back in one piece to close gap towards front of hood

    • Finished adjusting hood where needed

    • started moving MSD box to inside of bronco instead of on the firewall without interfering with heater/ac kit

    • Cleaned and welded 1/8inch steel rod to bottom of cowl and trimmed slightly (both sides) to extend it so the upper body line was coherent

    • Maneuvered cowl sides inward to keep the body smooth between door fitment and hood width.

    • Discovered original hinges are too far worn down (one inch of play side to side) the hinges cause the spring to contact inside of hood skirt. New hinges found

    • Began manipulating hood metal for ideal fitment to cowl

    • Cut spot welds at back of hood in order to push the outer skin down to better align with cowl

    • Began shifting hood skin down

    • cleaned paint off of rear passenger body between taillight and tailgate

    • welded 1/8 inch stainless rod to rear passenger tailgate To fill in gap caused by age and original tire carrier

    • trimmed rod to 3/16 gap top to bottom of right side tailgate

    • cleaned paint from drivers side rear tailgate gap

    • added 1/8 inch rod

    • welded in place and trimmed to copy 3/16 gap

    • added small portion of rod to bottom driver's side of tailgate to create a nice even straight line

    • trimmed bottom of tailgate rod that was added

    • smoothed both sides of tailgate gaps so it's ready for glazing and paint

    • cut away at back of passenger fender and tack welded to create a nice even gap after fitting front end.

    • tacked, adjusted, cut, and restacked specific spots to keep fender from warping

    • welded up gap that was cut

    • smoothed welds and added more weld where required

    • adjusted bottom corner of fender slightly to more align with bottom of door

    • adjusted bottom of door and top of fender to finalize the curve required for proper look and fitment

    • started making bolts to retain top of steering column to steering tube

    • removed bad replacement drivers side hood hinge

    • installed new replacement with much more success

    • trimmed holes on bottom side of hood hinge

    • adjusted hood to find the best fitment location

    • cleaned paint from drivers side tweeter hole

    • flattened and fixed metal to original curve

    • trimmed metal slightly

    • made a template and cut out new piece of filler steel

    • tacked in place

    • welded and smoothed surface

    • cut weld in one location due to metal not laying flush

    • used stud puller and hammer to get the sheet metal to line up

    • rewelded and smoothed

    • cleaned off passenger side tweeter hole

    • flattened steel and made a plug

    • tacked and welded in place with no issues

    • smoothed welds

Mechanical Labor

with Tyler

    • Replace Actuator (CSP)

    • OEM Gauges

    • Speedo Gear Color??

    • Haymaker Restomod AC Unit Install

    • Holley Oil Pressure Sensor w/ Relay to be wired

    • Knock Sensor needs to be Wired to a Light

    • Flush & Pressure Test Fuel System

    • Plumb Rear Brakes

    • Clean up under hood (Does not mind seeing hoses)

    Specific Dipstick Install Protocol

    • Power Locks

    • Power Windows

    • Alarm System w/ Remote Kill

    • Replace Windshield

    • located passenger rear flexible brake line that goes to caliper and installed

    • custom modified rear axle brake lines to fit flex lines

    • tightened rear brake lines and check fittings for rest of system

    • located brake booster

    • installed fuel tank rubber hoses and filler neck

    • checked fuel system fittings for tightness

    • wired in gauge set

    • fitted and installed gauge set

    • installed ignition switch into dash while swapping old lock cylinder to retain original key functionality

    • located missing small parts that are needed to order

    • fiilled oil filter with oil and crank case per engine builders notes on engine

    • Installed dipstick

    • mocked up steering column and found any missing parts

    • Finish wired front marker lights

    • finish wired headlights

    • assembled electric fans to shroud and prepped to be wired into fan controller

    • installed fans and shroud onto radiator

    • started to finish wire engine bay including starter solenoid

    • Routed main power and ground cables from battery to engine, engine to frame, frame to body, from battery to starter, and from battery to main fuze block

    • fabricated A/C soft line bracket to keep A/C lines away from alternator and A/C belt tensioner

    • measured for proper V-belts for A/C and Alternator and ordered

    • installed V-belts

    • ordered brake booster

    • installed lower radiator hose, upper hose did not fit properly so found and ordered one that will fit better without risking the hose popping off the chrome thermostat housing

    • searched for any pieces needed for clutch setup and added to need to order list.

    • added brake pedal plastic bushings to brake pedal shaft and adjusted where necessary.

    • couldnt find or source the clutch lever that bolts to the end of the clutch pedal shaft so one was fabricated and painted

    • sized new stainless clutch rod with hyme joints to factory length to ensure proper adjustment and movement

    • installed clutch rod from pedal to clutch Z bar.

    • Sandblasted factory throttle pedal rod

    • painted in satin black and reassembled with supplied new throttle pedal and spring

    • cleaned and painted factory throttle cable and installed assembly

    • installed new thermostat housing and upper radiator hose

    • added gear oil to the rear axle, transfer case, transmission, and front axle

    • found that the transmission had a bad leak at the passenger PTO cover

    • removed, cleaned, and resealed PTO cover

    • cleaned, painted, and installed new brake booster

    • cleaned, painted, and installed master cylinder to booster

    • sandblasted and painted tailgate spring retainer plates and installed spring

    • installed tailgate on the truck

    • adjusted tailgate and marked where the body was off

    • shaped rear passenger upper corner to match the tailgate and driver-side

    • wired knock sensor into the cab

    • wired reverse light switch with new plug

    • replaced oil pressure sender to the correct factory replacement and wired

    • marked current location of distributor and rotor to make sure timing is exact on reinstallment

    • removed passenger side valve cover to see when oil reaches valvetrain

    • primed oiling system as a precaution after engine has been sitting for an extended period of time

    • reassembled engine (valve cover and distributor)

    • hooked batter up to wiring harness and added needed fuses to fuze block

    • uncovered carburetor

    • added 5 gallons of fuel to fuel tank and tested fuel system

    • tightened one leaking location

    • attempted to test fire but found that supplied installed starter was a dud

    • retrieved correct 7/16 tube nut for forward most master cylinder location

    • bench bled master cylinder

    • installed MC back on truck and hooked up lines

    • let brake fluid gravity feed to all calipers

    • tightened a multitude of loose brake line fittings

    • bled brake system with installed easybleeders

    • drilled holes in nose of truck for clinkos for easier and accurate reassembly after paint including fenders, hood hinges, and forward fender brackets to core support

    • installed clutch return spring

    • disassembled supplied factory steering slide shaft

    • sandblasted and repainted

    • reassembled, greased, and installed slide shaft with new borgeson u-joints

    • finished a multitude of small mechanical details under the truck including fixing small leaks in diff covers, new bolt for rear sway bar, e-brake cables adjustment and small parts painting to prevent rust

    • installed new starter and found that the engine was locked up

    • tried turning at crank and flywheel but was solid

    • pulled all spark plugs to inspect if it was hydro locked or rusted in the cylinders. Inside the cylinders looked pristine

    • drained oil and snaked a bore scope into the oil pan to see if there was a mechanical blockage or rust internally and internals looked pristine as well

    • pulled driveshafts

    • removed transfer case linkage

    • removed transfer case

    • removed transmission mount, transmission, and transmission extension

    • tested transfer case and transmission, both were perfectly fine

    • pulled bellhousing and found that the bellhousing was contacting the new Centerforce flywheel firmly in three locations due to the ring gear being located further back

    • removed clutch pack and flywheel to inspect if it was a manufacturing or fitment error.

    • used a die grinder and carbide to shave away the bellhousing bosses that were contacting

    • test fitted and tried to turn the engine over via the crank bolt

    • removed bell housing and shaved more, test fitted, turned and repeated until enough material was removed to properly clear bellhousing

    • reinstalled bellhousing the final time and hooked up clutch pedal rod

    • reinstalled transmission

    • reinstalled transmission mount

    • cleaned and resurfaced transfer case mounting surface including smoothing some of the cast iron around transfer case mounting bolt threads that pulled out slightly to avoid a fitment error leak

    • reinstalled transfer case and linkage

    • reinstalled driveshafts

    • tried to test fire and found that firing order and #1 wire location was incorrect

    • found top dead center and continued normal steps to setting spark plug wire locations

    • tightened one AN fitting for the fuel line and test fired. Ran and idled almost immediately

    • adjusted chrome grille tabs to mount front markers correctly

    • found best location for knock sensor light

    • drilled and finished hole in dash for knock sensor

    • cleaned off black anodized knock sensor light cap for it to be painted body color when the truck gets painted for the best factory astetic look

    • wired knock sensor and tested

    • unpinned factory style blinker switch plug and adapted Ford blinker switch to gm style ribbon column plug supplied on wiring harness

    • tested all lights for functionality including blinkers, markers, and 4way

Mechanical: Electrical

with Tyler & Chris

    • CSR supplied American Auto Wire Harness Install

    • Stock Gauges

    • The truck will have a Retrosounds radio, door speakers, rear seat speakers, and subs in the back quarters, 2 amps.

    • The truck is going to be running a Resto-mod air AC system

    • No EFI on this truck

    • Power Windows!

    • Power Locks!

    • Alarm System w/ remote kill

    • Amp Steps

    • modified new battery box to fit in auxillary battery location by cutting spot welds out, mocking up, and plug welding

    • sandblasted and painted to achieve even and clean finish

    • mocked mock battery to aux location and planned cable routing

    • made battery cables and clamped out of view under core support

    • installed new headlight switch nut and mocked up

    • modified dash so switches exit their proper locations through plastic dash cover by cutting and welding

    • assess installation and length of amps steps needed.

    • Max length 60"

    • Same mounting style as the F-250

Mechanical: Power Steps

with Chris

    • Fabricate and wire the powered steps

    • Fabricated mounts for passenger side step.

    • Mocked up a step and started shimming for even closure

    • Built out passenger side brackets, and removed old plating left on inner rockers.

    • Welded in the rear bracket and squared to the body.

    • Built out a lower structure for the front mount and mocked up the bracket. Tacked in the bracket to check closure.

    • Started welding in the front bracket and found corrosion below the top layer of the rocker.

    • Pulled the Bracket back off. Addressed corrosion and re-tacked in the bracket.

    • Closure of the Step is now lower on the front after. Cannot move the bracket up any further and will have to address it with the rear bracket.

    • Welded in the front bracket and re-assembled step.

    • started assessing the modification of the rear bracket.

Fabrication

with Tyler

    • Exhaust - Crossover - V Band 2 into 1 up & over Axle

    • Weld on Axle Tabs

    • used the other halves of the v-band clamps supplied for header collectors

    • fabricated passenger side and driver side header tubes to connect to one slip-on Y-pipe 2-1 collector

    • found a more appropriate muffler (Borla brand 1 in and 1 out)

    • installed a Vband clamp after the Y-pipe collector and attached it to the muffler side

    • extended exhaust up and over the rear axle and installed another Vband clamp

    • added hangar from muffler to body

    • added hangar from exhaust over the axle to the body

    • added hangar in the center of the exhaust system to frame cross-member

    • continued exhaust as far away from the empty cavity under the rear seat as possible while still staying mostly hidden

    • removed exhaust system and added header heat wrap around "Y-pipe" from the driver side and passenger side header collectors to protect the firewall, floor, and wiring, and to keep from heating oil in the oil pan

    • reinstalled the entire system and balogna cut tailpipe

Parts List

[PART]

[PART NUMBER]

[QUANTITY]

79 Bronco interior dash screws

40-0523

15.00

Notes: interior dash screws gone or missing, cannot be found

79 Bronco interior dash j-clips

30-0829

10.00

Notes: some clips we have but not enough

79 BRONCO MASTER BODY BOLT KIT

78B-M

1.00

79 bronco steel grille surround (chrome finish)

49-8941

1.00

Notes: needed due to the original being dented in multiple complex curve locations

79 BRONCO FR SPLASH SHIELD

49-7999

1.00

79 BRONCO FL SPLASH SHIELD

49-7998

1.00

79 BRONCO REAR SPLASH SHIELD

49-8000

4.00

Military Style Battery Terminal Ends

PCO-0810PT

1.00

79 Bronco XS Power Battery D4800

XSP-D4800

2.00

Vintage Air #10 90 Bulkhead Fitting

VTA-35883-VUG

1.00

Vintage Air #6 90 Fitting

VTA-35831-VUG

1.00

Vintage Air Grommet

VTA-33137-VUI

7.00

Vintage Air #10 To 5/8 12" heater hardline

VTA-12412-VBH

2.00

79 Bronco headlight switch nut

40-0924

1.00

79 Bronco wiper switch knob

40-2534

1.00

79 Bronco Firewall to Steering Column Seal

45-0230

1.00

Notes: This is the more 3-dimensional seal, not the gasket

79 Bronco Right Front Marker

47-4117

1.00

79 Bronco Front Left Marker

47-4116

1.00

79 Bronco Clutch Pedal Assist Spring

40-3202

1.00

79 Bronco Clutch Spring Insulator

40-3225

1.00

79 Bronco Battery Tray

49-7520

1.00

Borgeson Dampened 3/4 DD+36 Spline Steering Ujoint

BRG-163449

1.00

Borgeson 3/4 DD+36 Spline Steering Ujoint

BRG-123449

1.00

Fuel

93 by the gallon

5.00

Tube Nut

1.00

Amp Research Power Steps

76235-01A

1.00


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